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As far as decades go, the Twenties look to be the most trendy for spring/summer 12. And yet there is a strong mid-century moment happening this season as well. We saw it at Prada, Jil Sander, Dries van Noten and now at Rochas. According to Rochas press notes, the house’s creative director Marco Zanini wanted to “express a nostalgic hope for an imagined future.” That meant chic, simple A-line coats, skirt suits, and dresses with full skirts in the palest duchess satin. Neat coifs and head kerchiefs polished off the retro looks. The only problem was that they almost looked too prim and restrained for the average twenty- or thirtysomething. His lurex sweater and knit skirt pairings, however, struck the right balance between the mid-century and now.

Dries Van Noten’s peplum trousers and embroidered jackets.

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